GROSS WEIGHT INCREASE FOR SWIFTS DEFINED...  (060100)
Subj: Gross Weight Increase Kit
From: Brian Cumpston <n78320@hotmail.com>
Jim,
It was a real pleasure to meat you in Athens. At the banquet they were auctioning off gross weight increase kits, what is a gross weight increase kit, and what does it contain? Brian

Brian,
The normal gross weight of a Swift is 1710 lbs. Merlyn Products of Spokane, WA has a kit to raise this to 1970 lbs. for the big engined Swifts. (210 Continental, 200 Lycoming, 220 Franklin) They also were offering a kit for the smaller engine Swifts, like the 145 which allowed 1835 lbs, but I don't know if they sell that kit anymore. I think the kit sells for around $800. What you get is primarily the paperwork. The hardware consists of a pair of aluminum straps about 6" long which must be riveted in at the lower wing attach point. -- Jim

TILT OF THE INSTRUMENT PANEL ON THE SWIFT... (060300)
Subj: PANEL
From: Lee Davis <N80730@aol.com>
Jim, We talked about this a long time ago. What it the average panel tilt on a Swift? Is is 3deg or 7? -- Lee

Lee,
The original 1946 panels were slanted 7 degrees. Many replacements, especially with sticks installed are at "0" or 90 degrees, if you prefer. I always thought I liked the 7 degree panel, I had a modified airplane 25 years ago that had a vertical ("0" degree) panel previously installed and I hated it. Mark Holliday has the panel in one of his airplanes set at "0" and somehow it seems OK now! -- Jim

AND I BET YOU THOUGHT WE'D NEVER GET AROUND TO TALKING ABOUT B-57s IN A SWIFT NEWSLETTER...  (060700)
Subj: Flush rivets
From: Larry Simms <larrys@abs.net>
Jim,  Back when they were building the B57-B's at the Martin plant in Baltimore, MD. I was involved with some of the design work. If I remember correctly one of the things that we got from the Britts were flush rivets that they used to hold the 1/32" skin on the airplane. We questioned their use because of the stress applied to the wing skins. These rivets were a tad larger in diameter than our small rivet but the countersink was such that it was contained within the thickness of the 1/32" skin where our rivet couldn't. They were tested at our request and found to be as good as the standard flush head rivets that were used then on thicker material. I don't remember how it was resolved because I was loaned out to the B57-D program and that was a very different airplane. Do you have any information on this style of flush rivet? I just wondered if they ever found their way into commercial use. Larry Simms

Larry,
No, the only hardware usable without engineering data is listed in AC43.13-1B. The French used some very low crown brazier type rivets also, but they are not approved on US certificated aircraft. When I was an airline mechanic, Boeing even used some odd ball hardware which, if you had their engineering capability would not be too hard too prove, but for a private individual working on a little old 50 year old airplane like a Swift would not be practical. Some Swifts have had some flush rivets installed using dimpled skins vs. countersinking. I am sure a good engineer could make a good case for this, because dimpling adds shear strength to the riveted joint. In this case it usually is up to the individual to prove to his FAA inspector that it meets FAR 43.13 (b)... at least equal to its original condition.... Jim

CENTER SECTION QUESTION... (080300)
Subj: Structure - Center Section
From: Steve Roth <StevenRoth@aol.com>
Jim: When comparing my Swift to another (older), I noticed that the other Swift has plates affixed with four bolts in the space in front of the main spar where it exits the fuselage. The emergency gear cables run through holes in these plates. The plates seem to tie the front fuselage structure and the rear fuselage structure together. My Swift (SN 3697) does not have these plates but has long round spacers which tie the front and rear fuselage pieces together. These plates are not depicted in the parts manual. Is this difference correct? Thanks, Steve

Steve,
Yes, the early Globe airplanes had a riveted on centersection and when Temco started up they wanted a bolt together fuselage/centersection. Temco changed this configuration at about s/n 2002, but I would have to look at a few airplanes to say that definitely. The GC-1A's thru about s/n 300 had the early setup. The first series of Globe GC-1B's were the early setup also, from s/n 1001 to 1103. (I believe) You are right when you say the parts catalogue doesn't show this. There are several areas where the parts catalogue is really lacking. -- Jim

CENTER SETIONS QUESTION PART II... (080300)
Subj: Re: Structure - Center Section
From: StevenRoth
I was told that the plates I referred to were first riveted on then later bolted (using four bolts) on each plate. This plate is only visible when the cover/upholstery is removed from the spar area of the center section. Each plate sits at the front of the spar, kind of blocking the large hole in the side of the fuselage. As I said, the emergency gear cable run through holes in each plate. I just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same plate. Thanks, Steve

Steve,
On the early s/n's, the part you are referring to is shaped like an "L". On the later s/n's, it is a channel, more like a "U". The later ones have 4 bolts, the earlier ones from the factory have a row of rivets along the forward edge and two bolts on the aft side, the short part of the "L". Once the centersection has been removed, the rivets are usually replaced with bolts. Underneath the aircraft, the later series have the 2 spacers and the 1/4" bolts, the early Globes have sheet metal brackets riveted on. -- Jim

CENTER SECTION SUCCESS!!! (080300)
Subj: Re: Structure - Center Section
From: Steve Roth <StevenRoth@aol.com>
OK Jim, that's the one for sure. Thanks so much for the help. Now I know I am not missing a part. Steve

CENTERSECTION BOLTS... (110300)
From: Anton de Klerk <aviator185@hotmail.com>
Hi Jim, Could you please tell me what size bolts to use inside the fuselage to hold the center section in place? (4 bolts through the spar) Lastly, I see Charlie Nelson's Swift has what looks like a retracting tail wheel. Is this a major job?

Anton,
The centersection/fuselage bolts are 1/4", 5/16" or 3/8" NF (US) depending on position, sorry I don't remember exactly. I guess I haven't bolted a centersection on for 15 years or so! All the bolts on a Swift are United States AN bolts. (Army-Navy) except the 4 major wing attach bolts which are NAS (National Aircraft Standard). These bolts all have a US National Fine thread. Charlie Nelson does indeed have a retracting tailwheel. It was designed and built by Merlyn Products, but they decided not to market it, so it is "one of a kind". -- Jim

BUSHINGS...(010101)
Subj: Rudder Bell Cranks
From: George Isenberger <gi@globe-swift.net (George)>
Hi Monty, I am still in the process of repairing my Swift after the accident I had in March. I was able to fly it back to my hangar two weeks ago. I found my tail-wheel fork to have play so I started correcting this. I got the bushing-kit from Athens but could not get out the bushings that are in the Tail Cone Assy. Any idea? Heat? I also found the Rudder Bell Cranks no. 11-351-3615 to have a lot of play, especially sideways. Is that normal or do I have to get new ones from Athens? Thanks for your help... Regards, George

George,
There is a machinist's bushing removing tool kit available which consists of stepped "slugs" and a threaded rod and spacers and washers to allow the bushings to be drawn out. Heat may help. I don't know how to illustrate by email, but if you have too much of a problem I could snailmail a sketch. I would disassemble the rudder bellcranks and measure and inspect them. If there is over .005 wear or so I would consider replacing the bushings. Perhaps you can get by just replacing the bolts. A little wear looks like a lot when moving the end of the arm. Replacing the bolts and lubricating with some new heavy grease may keep you flying for many years. -- Jim

CORRUGATED FLOORS... (040501)
Subj: s/n 1024
From: Don Bartholomew <spectro@nanosecond.com>
Hi Jim,
I am looking at s/n 1024 at this time. By the listings of s/n's, it is an early -1B. The aircraft has a corrugated floor under the seats and a riveted in centersection. I am accustomed to seeing this in -1A's and was under the impression that all 1-B's had smooth floors and bolt in center sections. My questions: Did any of the -1B have the corrugated floor, and if so, what s/n was the change made to smooth floors? Or, has the data plate been changed on this airframe? I don't see this as any problem, just curious. Thanks again for your help. Don

Don
The early -1B's had the corregated floor. s/n 1001 to 1103 (about) That would be correct for s/n 1024. Even a few 2000 s/n's had the corregated floor, but Temco found that method of assembly too time consuming and in the interest of mass production, began the bolted on centersection. BTW - regarding the riveted on centersection with the big lightening holes in the front spar web - s/n 2001 was made from a converted -1A (N80564, s/n 67) I'm not sure about s/n 2002 which was evidently a newly manufactured airplane. (There were two N80565's, the first one was a GC-1A which was exported. s/n 2003 was N80566 which has been destroyed, I don't know what configuration that one was either. I don't know exactly what s/n started the bolted on cc. but the time frame was probably June, 1946. s/n 3528 I think also had the riveted on cc., it was made out of s/n 28 in 1948. I love the history of these things! -- Jim

BEARING THE UNBEARABLE...(010302)
Subj: 78276 Control Surface Bearings
From: Jeff Wimmer <jwimmer@fleetweather.com>
My examination of the control surface attached points shows a rather ecletic collection of hardware and a number of missing specially cupped washers. As they will be removing all the control surfaces when she is painted, I have put in an order with the Swift parts department for a complete set of hardware. My question is whether I should consider replacing all the ball bearings when everything is apart, or if that would be overkill and I should just have them repacked with grease. The surfaces seem to move pretty nicely except for a slight rubbing sound at the elevator in the last 25% of upward travel - which I'll have checked when it is apart. It doesn't look like an easy job to change the bearings, as they seem to be staked in the holders. As some of the washers are missing, the bearings have been exposed to the elements, and are probably pretty dry. Also, the bearings aren't cheap at (approximately) $25 each.....but it's not often that one has all the surfaces removed. Is it a difficult job to change the bearings, and what are your thoughts about whether I should have it done? Thanks! Jeff Wimmer

Jeff
While the control surfaces are off I would inspect and lubricate the K3L and KS3L bearings. I would not arbitrarily replace them. A regreaseing tool is available from Aircraft Spruce and others. The holes in the hinges can only have so many bearings pressed into them over a lifetime before they get worn out! It is not too hard to replace the bearings, you must make a puller arangement with a long threaded 3/16" bolt or screw and a couple of wrench sockets to pull them in. You might have a couple of bearings on hand to replace any rusty or worn ones. -- Jim

WHICH GREASER IS WHICH...(010302)
Subj: Re: 78276 Control Surface Bearings
From: Jeff Wimmer <jwimmer@fleetweather.com>
Hi (Again) Monty:
I went to the Aircraft Spruce website to order one of those bearing re-greasers, and here is what came up:
10650-3 BEARING REGREASER (ACS) #3 $8.200
10650-4 BEARING REGREASER # 4 $10.800
10650-5 BEARING REGREASER (ACS) #5 $11.950
10650-6 ACS BEARING REGREASER 10650-6 $12.550
10650-8 #8 BEARING REGREASER 10650-8 $13.650
12-11500 ACS BEARING REGREASER SET $53.750
So, I called and asked which one I need. They didn't have any information about what fits the Swift bearings, but told me that if I had the dimensions of the bearings, they could tell me what to buy. Also intended to ask you what you meant by "......lubricate the K3L and KS3L bearings"Are there two different types and/or sizes of bearings? -- Jeff

Jeff
The K3L and KS3L bearings take an AN3 bolt (3/16") The ailerons and flaps take the KS3L - the "S" stands for swivel or self aligning. The tail surfaces take the K3L -- the bearings are in a straight line. I would guess you want the 10650-3 bearing regreaser. -- Jim

RIVETS... (JAN 03)
Subj: Brazier Head Rivets
From: Jared Smith <jedswift@aol.com>
Monty, Where can I find those original AN455 rivets? It would be nice to keep all the rivet matching! Thanks for any direction you may have, Jared Smith N3378K

Jared - Sierra Pacific Supply out there in CA. Look them up in Google or www.switchboard.com Note: some are AN456 Strange I should get your note today. I just got a shipment from them today! Here is their contact info: Sierra Pacific Supply, 1801 West El Segundo Blvd, Compton, CA 90222-1096 (310) 638-9318 FAX (310) 638-8105 Email: rivethouse@earthlink.net

RIVET SIZE CORRECTION... (FEB 03)
From: Mark Holliday <MarkH85@aol.com>
Subject: Rivets
To: Jared Smith <Jedswift@aol.com>
Jed, most of the swifts I've worked on had 456 braizer not the 455 which are the larger brazier heads. Mark

MARK WITH MORE ON RIVETS... (MAR 03)
From: Mark Holliday <MarkH85@aol.com>
Subject: Re: February #2 GTS Internet Update
Hi Denis, More on rivets. It has been my experience some of the very early Globe serial numbers, and the very late Temcos used the small headed AN456 3/32 rivets. In between, like Bill said, I think they used the 455 3/32 and the 456 1/8 to enable the use of the same set. It was like that on Cessna 120/140's and Luscombes. Probably made production easier. Or they used whatever they had for convience. Mark

RIGGING... (APRIL 03)
Subj: Rigging
From: Doc Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com>
Jim:
I don't find anything in the archives concerning rigging per say. Read all the articles I could find on the flaps, ailerons, etc. When I put my new wings on I set the ailerons and flaps up to line up with the center section trailing edges. Everything matches up well out to the tips. I also installed stock tips which took mounting a lot of new nut plates and drilling some new holes. On my maiden test flight I experienced an extremely heavy right wing. The heaviness increased greatly as speed passed through 130 mph indicated. I adjusted left aileron trim tab to lower left wing. Flew airplane on second flight and had no heaviness. When I looked out at flaps and ailerons though, the ailerons were reflexed significantly because of the push of the trim tab. I came back and straightened the tab and raised the left flap 6 turns on the ball ends. Went for the third flight and right wing is as heavy as first flight. While holding significant left pressure on the stick I eyeballed the ailerons and flaps trailing edges and everything was lined up perfect. Seems confusing to me. Am also having to hold left rudder and already have a good bit of left rudder trim bent in on the tab. (180 Lycoming with no offset in mount) My next move is to lower the right flap but I hate to do it because the way it is now its lined up perfectly from root to tip. I did notice that my right tip is slightly drooped cause I shoved the tip too far on the wing on the bottom. I can adjust this by opening the holes on the bottom of the tip to move it out and then use tinnerman washers. I kept looking at the tip thinking that if the right tip is drooped it ought to generate lift because of the trailing edge of the tip drooping. Checked my elevators and they're less than 1/8" difference between left and right. Thought I might be getting some roll moment if one side was higher than the other. Got any thoughts on all this or any suggestions for me to follow? I'm missing something here or else maybe I've got an incidence difference between the left and right wing. The left wing was damaged and Swift Works repaired it with a new leading edge skin, rear spar, and several upper and lower skins. Vaughn and Scott know what they're doing so don't suspect this to be an issue. Interesting issue... with the old wings I was heavy on the left side. Could the tips be the culprit? Would appreciate any help you could give. Doc Moore

Doc
There is a rigging procedure on Pg. 28 & 29 of the Operators Handbook. To start with, with the cable tension relaxed, adjust the push-pull rods from the actuating bellcrank to the aileron so the bellcrank is 90 degrees to the rear spar when the aileron is neutral. The inspection cover makes a handy 90 degree measuring tool. At this time, you want the control wheels (or sticks if you have them) tied in neutral with something like a yardstick and masking tape. When 20 pounds tension is evenly applied to the aileron cables they should remain in neutral. You may want just slightly less than 20 pounds but the book says 20. See the flaps procedure for correcting wing heaviness. Now having said all this, you can adjust the aileron tab also, but as you have discovered getting the trailing edges to line up takes some test flying and experimenting. The wing tips are important when it comes to wing heaviness. If one tip is giving more or less lift than the other you never will get the airplane to fly straight, at least not without gross adjustments to the flaps and ailerons. I have reskinned a fair amount of wings and many times the curvature of the leading edge may be slightly changed or the wash out slightly changed so it's pretty hard to match what the factory did 50 years ago. If you can get the trailing edges to line up holding a little aileron pressure I would tweak a wing tip to get rid of wing heaviness. You can try redrilling the tip or making a hammer adjustment with a hammer and 2 x 4 and in an extreme case even break the spot welds in the trailing edge and reweld it after reshaping. If you start out with the ailerons rigged per the book, it helps, but it is a trial and error process to get everything to line up. I would suspect the tips are contributing to your wing heaviness. -- Jim

DATA PLATE LOCATIONS... (AUG 03)
Subj: Airframe data plate location
From: Denis Mee <meetwo@comcast.net>
Hi Jim,
I remember there was some discussion about the location of the ID data plate on the airframe but I can't seem to find any reference to it now, can you tell me where the data was installed on the Temco Swift? Thanks, Dennis Mee

Dennis
The Temcos had the data plate on the left side of the fuselage at about sta.165. If you want to know exactly I could measure mine tomorrow and get back to you. The Globes had two data plates, one on the firewall and one on the hat shelf behind the pilot. Except the Temco built Globes (the 2000 s/n's) only had the one on the hat shelf. -- Jim

Thanks Jim,
No need to measure that's about where it is on 3812K. I also had one on the bulkhead behind the hat shelf, I'll remove that one to keep the fed's from asking questions! Thanks again! -- Dennis

COWLING PAPERWORK... (DEC 03)
Subj: Swift
From: Bill Boothe <bboothe@neto.com>
Monty - I recently purchased a GC1B Swift with an 0-300 engine. The cowling is made of fiberglass and does not appear to be the original equipment. Also the wing tips are fiberglass. I cannot find any information in my log books or list of STC's. How can I find out if the above is approved? (the last owner is deceased) Thanks Bill Boothe N3947K

Bill
I believe you bought N3747K, the late Goody Goodrich Swift. You are right that the fiberglass parts aren't original! Hopefully, the modifications were properly documented on 337 forms when they were done. If so, you can get copies from the FAA. For a voice call, call 405-954-3116 and for a fax dial 405-954-3548. The fax is best, just fax a note you want the aircraft file (make sure you get the "N" number right! The voice line is very busy so use a phone with redial. The FAA supplies the aircraft records on a CD-ROM now and you can easily print copies. The fiberglass cowl and wingtips are a common STC used on the Swift and should be on your aircraft equipment list and noted on your weight and balance report. It sounds like you need a competent I.A. mechanic to get your paperwork in order. -- Jim

NOW YOU CAN SAVE THAT "UNSAVABLE" CENTER SECTION... (JAN 04)
Nevada Swift expert Don Bartholomew is making a run of center section spar caps, both top and bottom. He currently has the material and is negotiating having them bent now. He expects them to be finished early February. Don says the price should be $875 for the top cap, $925 for the lower cap, or $1700 for a pair. There are a limited quantity so if you are interested contact Don now to reserve yours.
Don Bartholomew
Aeroplane Factory
885 Taildragger Road
Gardnerville, NV 89410
v: 775-782-2992
f: 775-782-7568
email: diamondswift@earthlink.net

RIVET SIZE QUESTION... (FEB 04)
Subj: RIVETS
From: Todd Asche <wcrcoi@midstate.tds.net>
Jim,
My son and myself are going to start drilling rivets on the center section. You told me about a slightly over sized rivet available (out of California?) Would you have that rivet # size and company name and phone #. Thanks, Logan and Todd Asche, Willmar MN (N3721K)
P.S. I have been very impressed with the people involved with Swifts. Every one is super friendly and have gone beyond the call of duty to help us with our questions and parts needs. This has been a father-son project for us and the new friends we have made (fellow Swifters) have even made the experience even better yet. Thank You

Logan & Todd
See AC43.13-1B Chapter 4. Section 4, page 4-16. In para.(4) is the statement " These rivets can also be purchased in half sizes by designating a "0.5" after the main length (i.e. MS20470 AD4-3.5) They can be obtained from: Hanson Rivet and Supply Co. Http://www.hansonrivet.com (I believe that is where I got them last, my rivets are all over at the airport) Their phone number is: (323) 227-4000. I believe these rivets take a # 27 drill for the 1/8" oversize (well, maybe a #26, it's been a while) Good luck with N3721K, it is an old friend! -- Jim

"COVER ME SCOTTY, I’M GOIN’ IN"... (FEB 04)
Subj: Heading into the tail
From: Harry Fenton <gippsaero@charter.net>
Hi Jim,
The weather is probably going to be rotten for three or four weeks and the sod strip I'm at won't be useable, so I'm knocking the Swift down for an annual inspection. This is really the first time I've dug deep into it. I popped off the panel in the baggage compartment and I feel like the guy that looked into King Tut's tomb for the first time- pretty exciting. If it were just a Cessna, I'd flop down and crawl into the tailcone. Just as a precaution, I want to make sure that there is nothing special about the Swift. I can see where some of the bulkheads have been bent a bit from past expeditions. One thing just out of my reach that will be removed is an old remote compass sender that is about the size of a small coffee can and looks heavy. Speaking of heavy, I was under the panel today pulling out old wiring and working on a plan to remove an old radio power supply. The power supply is big enough that I will have to do some pretty good disassembly of some surrounding components to get it out. One part that puzzles me is a large capacitor about the size of half a pop can that is bolted to the bottom of the glove box. I haven't traced it's roots yet, but just wondered if this is a stock Swift part, or some add on for the long gone tube radios. Harry

Harry
I have protected the bulkheads and bottom skin with an old carpet but I have also crawled back there just being careful. Wear some soft shoes or slippers and some knee pads like carpenters use. Take along a spray can of LPS-3 or ACF-50 and spray the structure, especially the longeron shelf where moisture can be retained. Inspect the AN3 bolt in the elevator bellcrank where the push/pull rods attach. If it is loose or worn replace it. Clean the area, especially the drain holes in the lower corners of the bulkheads. Remove any unwanted wiring or unused electrical junk. The bottom skin is only .016 so it dents easily but it is fairly rigid with the curved radius. Some Swifts have a cardboard draft seal at sta. 145. I don't know what that capacitor might be, it is not a Swift part. Probably a noise filter for something that Jim Walker put in there. If you eventually strip out and trash-can 100 lb. of junk you probably will have a pretty good performing 125! -- Jim

CENTER SECTION RIVET SEARCH... (FEB 04)
Subj: Swift Rivets
From: Todd Asche <wcrcoi@midstate.tds.net>
Jim,
We called Hanson Rivet Co. They claim they do not have 1/8" rivets in a slightly larger diameter. Our center section has been worked on before, so the holes are now larger. We don’t want to go to a 5/32" rivet, because of the larger head. We also received a e-mail from a Jim Thomason. He stated also that there was a rivet that is slightly larger in diameter with the same size head. Any idea of where else to look for these rivets? Todd Asche

Todd
I went over to my hangar this morning and located my rivets. The company is Sierra Pacific Supply. They have every rivet I know of and maybe more!
Sierra Pacific Supply
1801 West El Segundo Boulevard
Compton, CA 90222-1096
PH. (310) 638-9318
FAX (310) 638-8105
EMAIL rivethouse@earthlink.net

TREASURE HUNTING...(MAR 03)
Subj: Treasures of the Swift
From: Harry Fenton <gippsaero@charter.net>
Hi Jim,
I've had a pretty successful week "spelunking" in my Swift. I removed an inoperative Pioneer remote compass, a Narco power supply the size of a toaster, a voltage inverter and about a 100 feet or old wire and antenna cables. Weight savings so far is 27 lbs! That was a lot of dead weight! The old Pacific Scientific inertia reels are doomed and will probably save another 5-7 lbs. The weight of the seats that I removed was surprising- probably 30 lbs or more for my overstuffed, but otherwise stock seats. I'm thinking that the Cessna 150 seats would be lighter than the old stock seat that I have. One of our local homebuilding types wants to make a carbon fiber seat back that will look just like the stock seat but be a lot lighter. The final weight loss will probably be the miles of stainless hose. Walker must have owned stock in the company that made this stuff as he sure used a lot of it. There is a lot of weight in the panel and all of the sensors installed by Jim Walker, but those items are kind of part of the character of this plane, so I'm not sure if I'll remove that stuff. I'll be putting the Swift on scales in March and I'll let you know how it weighs in. Harry

Harry
JIm Walker was an engineer for McDonald in St Louis, so I would guess there are a lot of F4 Phantom parts on that Swift! -- Jim

DATA PLATE ISSUES...(JUNE 04)
Subj: O-300A data plate
From: Greg Morton <gmfly4kix@sbcglobal.net>
Hi Monty,
I have a 1956 172 with a C145-2...Don't know how it came to be. We are having a major overhaul now and would like to change the data plate to an O-300A. The case was recently changed, purchased from Divco and it is an O-300A case made in 1958. Do you know where I can get a new or like new data plate. I believe the engines are identical except for the data plates. I would like to have the data plate reflect the original engine (O-300A). What would need to be done to complete the switch? I do have a copy of the TCM SB for the conversion of data plate. Thank you, Greg Morton

Greg
If you have a copy of the SB you must realize changing the data plate is a big deal. You must follow the procedure in the SB and get a letter from your local FSDO and submit everything to TCM. There were some bogus data plates around for the A-65, C-85 and C-90 engines but not O-300 engines to my knowledge. -- Jim

RIVETS...(JUNE 04)
Subj: Rivets
From: Ernie Hansen <ephansen@olypen.com>
Hi Jim,
Sorry to bother you with this as I saw the information recently, but can't locate it on the web site or in the archives. What is the source you mentioned for rivets. I'm looking particularly for AN 442 flat head rivets. Thanks, Ernie Hansen Diamond Point, WA

Ernie
The best source I know of is:
Sierra Pacific Supply
1801 West El Segundo Boulevard
Compton, CA 90222-1096
Ph (310) 638-9318 Fax (310) 638-8105
Email <rivethouse@earthlink.net>

EXHAUST IN TAILCONE...(JUNE 04)
Subj: Exhaust in Tailcone
From:James Mack < jmack@clemson.edu>
Jim,
Steve Pittman and I are rebuilding S/N 11 down here in Manning, SC, and we're going to have to do something about the exhaust fumes in the tailcone. Can the problem be solved like it was on the Cardinal? They cut an inspection panel on the left side of the aft fuselage and mounted a small scoop on the cover. That pressurizes the tailcone so exhaust is not sucked in. That seems to me to be the easiest way to fix the problem, but I want to keep the plane legal, and I was wondering if a 337 for a similar fix existed. Thanks for your help, James Mack

James
I think if you just put a small scoop on an inspection panel that would be a minor alteration. I do not know of a 337 for anything like that. Having said that, if the tail area is washed periodically and sprayed with LPS-3 or AC-50 or similar then corrosion should not be a big problem. When the Swifts were new they didn't have corrosion preventive treatments like they do now. Of course, they didn't think Swifts would still be flying sixty years later either! -- Jim

EXHAUST IN TAILCONE PART TWO...
Subj: Re: Exhaust in Tailcone
From:James Mack < jmack@clemson.edu>
Jim,
You say it would be considered a minor alteration to put a scoop on an inspection panel, but would cutting the hole for the inspection panel be considered a major alteration by the FAA? Thanks again, James

James
I would say most FAA inspectors would consider that minor. FAA Definition of Major Alteration - an alteration not listed in the aircraft aircraft engine or propeller specifications -- (1) That might appreciably affect weight balance, structural strength, performance, powerplant operation, flight characteristics or other qualities affecting airworthiness; or (2) That can not be done according to accepted practices or cannot be done by elementary operations. -- Jim